To all our Friends on the Hawaiian Islands, Maui and those on the mainland, we invite you all to Support the Rebuilding of Lahaina and RebuildMaui.org.
As residents start the process of rebuilding, come support Lahaina based RebuildMaui.org and join in as we support local builders and businesses in their efforts.
Join us in the Lowes parking lot, Saturday, December 9th starting at 11am and bring donations of supplies and/or money to support RebuildMaui.org and participants and residents can take home a Free Maui Pink Contractor Grade, 50ft extension cord with #MauiStrong printed on it, a power strip, T-Shirt and 5-gallon bucket* etc. For more information on how you can support www.RebuildMaui.org contact Alfy Basurto at alfy@rebuildmaui.org.
* Must be in person at the time of event to receive free gifts. Donations not necessary to receive free gifts. While supplies last, approximately 2400 pieces are available.
Contact Info:
Rebuild Maui
Alfy Basurto
1201 Aina Mahiai, Lahaina, HI 96761
Phone: 808-283-4100
Email: alfy@rebuildmaui.org
Rebuildmaui.org
Have you ever coiled up an extension cord with ease, not having to struggle widening it up with your hands and using your elbow to hand ratio as the diameter. If not don’t worry, there is a quick easy solution to this and it is cord management. Or perhaps you’ve had the common issue of storing your extension cords in your work shed or garage. Sometimes organizing and storing of long extension cords can be such a hassle and can promote accidents when not coiled properly in the particular setting. Proper use of cord management is key in eliminating these issues by ensuring aisles, passageways, and jobsites are clear of misplaced cords or cables. Retractable cord reels are an ideal solution to the problem of keeping cords off the grounds and out of the way at the jobsite. Avoiding costly expenses related to slips, trips, falls, and cord related OSHA violations are not the only reasons for considering cord management equipment. There are many types of cord reels out in the market today and many have different features added to them to be more functional for consumers. For instance, a retractable cord reel can help you easily coil the cord, more than often this type of cord reels have their own extension cord built into the unit already. Typically, with this added feature along comes with additional outlets to the female end of the cords. Having this type of retractable cord reel in any setting can greatly increase the work productivity. It is important to utilize all cord management equipment’s to best of their abilities in order to promote and establish a safe efficient work setting.
There are various amount of cord management items to choose from that can improve your workplace’s safety. Here’s a few important items to remember when using a cord reel: Always fully extend an extension cord from the reel before connecting and using any tool or appliance to the cord reel. Overheating may occur if the cord is not fully extended. Most cord reels are intended for use as a general indoor, dry locations power source. Do not use in potentially dangerous locations, or where flammable or explosive vapors may be present. Cord reels must always be used in accordance with all electrical safety codes and ordinances, including the most recent National Electric Code (NEC) and with the Occupational Safety and Health Act (OSHA) Volume 1 on General Industry Standards and Interpretations. Cord management is not always focused on the safety of a jobsite but also storage space around a household or workshop. For instance, here at Prime Wire and Cable we have several products that can be of aid to any consumer, contractor, or business. Whether if it’s dealing with organizing all your home or work extension cords into a nicely coiled space or trying to improve your workplace’s safety. Here is a list of items you may want to consider:
Small efficient devices that can help you get organized without the large reel wheel. Check out these items CA1000, CA002000, & CACDL01 at below link: https://primewirecable.com/collections/cord-management/products/ca002000orange-plastic-cord-winder
Cord reel storage devices: https://primewirecable.com/collections/cord-management/category_cord-storage-devices
Retractable cord Reels devices: https://primewirecable.com/collections/cord-management/category_retractable-cord-reels
]]>As a quick refresher, eaves are the part of a roof that projects out horizontally beyond the side of the structure it covers. They can have practical functions, such as to provide shade and protection from rain, as well as aesthetic functions, creating a definite distinction between walls and roof
The eave of the house has no insulation or attic heat so the snow usually remains frozen there. When you mix water and snow you get ice which in turn creates what they call an ice dam on the eave of the home. The ice dam prevents the water from running off the roof. The water will try to go somewhere and that somewhere is usually in the walls of your home and crevices of the roof which could destroy your roof, create mold in the ceiling and walls which in turn is hazardous to your health not to mention a very costly repair and removal.
Roof heating cables were designed to blend into your roof shingles. The simple clip-in design minimizes most cosmetic issues and leaves you with roof protection that can stay installed year-round. The cables run in a somewhat wide zig-zag pattern up and down the roof, covering the eave of the home to prevent any ice dams from forming. The exact measurement varies depending on the length of the eave on the home. You will also have to consider any dormers, valleys and downspouts on the home into calculating the correct roof heating cable size. The roof heating cables melt passages through any potentially formed ice dams to minimize ice accumulation. Ideally, they help provide a path for snow to melt and drain off your roof rather pooling behind a dam of ice and snow. The automatic roof protection adds peace of mind knowing the controller automatically turns on when it senses moisture and temperatures below 39.2ºF. It will also automatically turn off when the temperature rises above 44.6ºF or when moisture is no longer detected, ensuring that the roof heating cable is operating when needed, and helps minimize your electricity bill.
Another issue with living in these colder climates is the fact that the temperatures go below freezing and will freeze your water pipelines. The water freezing within the pipelines could cause the pipes to burst when the running water pushes at the frozen water inside the pipelines. Thus causing a huge mess to clean up, no water, and a hefty price tag to have someone run new water lines. Pipe heating cables are taped to your pipes and have a built-in thermostat automatically turns on at 40ºF/4ºC. The pipe heating cables stop both metal & plastic pipes from freezing.
Prime also has a temperature-controlled indoor portable power outlet that will activate pipe heating cables, brooder lamps, heat lamps, portable heaters and other such heating devices that do not have a switch or built-in thermostat when the temperature drops to 39ºF. The outlet control will also automatically shut off when the temperature rises to 57ºF again controlling the heating cables. Prime’s line of deicing cable line was built with the set it and forget it mentality, so you only have to install them and then let them work for you, saving you money, time and giving you peace of mind.
]]>The biggest misconception a consumer holds when shopping for an extension cord, is that just any cord will work. Some forethought should be put into the features of a cord and how they will get the job done. Of course, how many amps your tool needs to draw will vary depending on the tool, (example, generator versus jigsaw) and that will drive the gauge (thickness) of the cord you need to purchase. Length of the cord will also be a high consideration but easy to figure out. Just how long do you need the cord? Making sure you don’t have too much footage is the main thing to consider, you don’t want too much slack where it becomes a burden for the intended job. The main features we would like to discuss are the materials the cord is made out of, whether it can withstand whatever environment they are in, and safety precautions.
There are different extensions cords used for the various climates throughout the country. It is important to choose the best suitable cord that works most effective for your location, learning about the materials that make up the cord is the first step towards a safer work environment. On average when you are dealing with outside projects there are many things that can go wrong, since Mother Nature can be pretty unforgiving. If there is a chance that you find yourself in certain part of the country that has sub-zero temperatures, then perhaps extreme cold weather extension cords are an option worth considering. If you didn’t know already, chilly climates can cause hardening to the outside covering of the cords, which will cause them to crack, break, and be exposed. When this happens it is recommended to dispose of the cord and purchase a replacement because it can be a hazard and jeopardize your safety.
Extreme cold weather cords like our CW511830-50ft 12/3 SJTW -50°C Glacier Flex® Extreme Cold Weather Extension Cord are designed to hold up in freezing cold temperatures and prevent against damages to their outer coverings. They provide outstanding performance in extreme climate conditions at temperatures from -58°F up to +140°F (-50°C up to +60°C). All of our Glacier Flex® extension cords provide superior resistance to moisture, ozone, cracking, and are outstanding in resistance to abuse, rough handling and wear. An addition to these cords, they also have The Primelight® Power Indicator Light in the connector that shows when there is power through the cord. Please feel free to browse through our catalog or website link below and see our Glacier Flex® line of cords. We can also provide an Engine block heater cord w/flashing indicator light (Sku # LTF890615) that works perfect for your car and compatible with an engine warming blanket, radiator and dipstick heaters. The outer jackets of these cords are constructed out of thermos-plastic elastomer, which are a physical mix of plastic and rubber. They consist of material with both thermoplastic and elastomeric properties; this is what gives them the ability to still flex when frozen and durable enough to prevent breaking. Really the true beauty of cold weather cords is their flexibility. At the end of a job, no matter how cold the day, the cord will simply coil and bend as you want it too and make life a little easier.
A bright high visibility blue is used on these cords in order to provide extra safety as well as prevents loss and theft on jobsites. All of these cords are certified and have ETL approvals, so they are authorized to function in any workplace or jobsite that involves extreme cold/freezing temperatures.
By following the advice above, you should be able to get an extension cord that is safe, durable and conveniently flexible in the colds, sub-zero temperatures. It is important to take all the information into consideration if you plan to use extension cords in this type of climate. Whether you are working on an outdoor patio project in the freezing cold, using an engine bock heater cord on your car outside, or using your electric snow blower to clear your driveway full of snow, just remember it is important to consider the issues reviewed above in order to use the most effective cord for that specific project and environment.
https://primewirecable.com/search?type=article%2Cpage%2Cproduct&q=glacier*+flex*
]]>Automation
It is so nice to come home late at night and have the chandelier in my hallway on. I don’t have to struggle slapping around to find the light switch on the wall, with my husband and child on my heels outside the door waiting. It also substitutes as a nightlight shining down the hallway at night so I don’t bump into anything. Using a light control makes turning your lights on and turning them off automatic. Having a device that can come on and then turn off all by itself is very convenient. Gone are the times where you have to walk over and flip a switch or push a button.
Space Saving
I know what you are thinking, if I wanted something to turn my lights on and off, I would just buy a timer, but many outdoor lights, like the ones on your garage are hardwired. External wall timers are great, but they don’t work in all applications, especially where lights are hardwired. When comparing a light socket control versus a timer, the light socket controls are generally a smaller more compact design. Light socket controls take up less than a few inches of space inside the cavity of the light, so you don’t even notice them. The light control acts as a middle man from the fixture to the bulb saving you space, time, and money not to mention really easy to install vs. a timer you would have to set current time and timer settings, and fiddle with every time you have a power outage.
Safety
As a home owner safety is a top priority. You want to take precautions against thieves or making your home a safe place to navigate so no one will get injured. Having your house robbed or an injury occurring would result in having to file insurance claims and have your premiums go on the rise. Light controls are a simple way to make you feel safer around your home. For instance I put a light control in my porch light so that the porch lights come on at night and off in the morning. This helps not just me from taking a spill but my family members or friends when they visit to see my outdoor steps. I don’t have to remember when it gets dark or worry about coming home to a dark porch and not being able to insert my key in the lock. Burglars are also less likely to target your home when there are lights on in and around the outside of the house because it makes it easier for neighbors to see points of entry.
What is a Power Strip?
A power strip can be described as an extension cord attached to a strip that can have several outlets. The receptacles affixed to the strip serve as multiple outlets for power for other devices to be plugged into. The cable is plugged into the wall then anything you plug into the receptacles on the strip will be powered by that wall outlet. It basically serves as another extension cord but with more outlets to power multiple devices at once. Power strips are typically designed to just transfer power and be additional outlet, not to stop surges in power. You can typically find the electrical limits on a power strip from its packaging or behind the actual strip. Be aware of what items are being plugged into the power strip, putting too many devices or devices that take a lot of power can result in overheating, electrical failure, or worse. It is important to realize what devices are being plugged into the strip to avoid any hazards, some items, portable heaters for example, do not recommend using a power strip and should be plugged directly into a wall outlet. Power strips are usually easy to turn on and off, many have the single on/off switch that enables you to kill power to all the connected devices at once.
What is a Surge Protector Strip?
A surge protector can look very identical to a power strip but their functions differ slightly. A surge protector basically protects all your other connected devices from a power surge. A power surge occurs in your home when your supply of electricity is interrupted. A surge protector is basically an electrical socket that protects your devices from a sudden change in electrical voltage or spike in electricity. It uses a specialized circuit to redirect spikes of electricity into a small circuit board without passing the electricity to your devices. This helps regulate the amount of electricity that goes through your devices, when higher than normal electricity is detected it will cut off the supply to your devices. Redirecting this power means your devices will be protected from being zapped or fried. Surge protectors have an on/off switch as well but when a spike occurs the light on the switch will change. When this happens you usually need to flip the switch so the electricity can be flowed through the strip once again, but beware the surge protector aspect may have “served its purpose” protected your devices and need to be replace. A $30 surge protector is a much cheaper investment than having to replace a dead $1800 LCD TV. A surge protector will cost you a bit more than a power strip because of the specialized circuit used to protect your devices and many times they look like a really buff power strip. You can think of it like a power strip but on steroids. Price will differ depending on the amount of joules your surge protector can protect against. Make sure you have a surge protector that has a high enough joule rating to protect the items connected to it. To learn more about joules, please see our blog: 3 Simple Tips to Choose the Right Surge Protector.
Usage and location of power strips and surge protectors.
Office
Power strips can be commonly found in most office settings because they provide multiple receptacles for office equipment. Typically, devices plugged into these strips won’t require large amounts of power to operate. These devices can range from a mechanical stapler, shredder, office fan, etc. However, if you wanted to connect a large office printer, computer, monitor, or fax machine then it would be best to connect them to a surge protector. There are some devices you would want to protect in case of any power surges such as your computer tower, monitor screen, and desk telephone. You ideally want to protect devices that are expensive.
Home
Both power strips and surge protectors can be found within a home. Depending on where you place them and which devices are plugged in will determine which one would best to use. Some devices that should be plugged into surge protectors can be a high-end electronics, such a TV, computers or a refrigerator. Both these devices take large amounts of energy from your home and can influence surges. You would preferably want these items protected in your home from power surges. The simple rule is if you want to protect your device from random spikes in electricity, then use a surge protector.
Workshop station
Make sure you plug in your surge protector or power strip into an area where it is safe from exterior damage. Especially any tools or large equipment in your garage or work shed that can potentially fall and damage these. Preferably, you would want to use surge protectors in your workstation, to protect your expensive power tools from being fried by unwanted surges. In a setting where power is being abruptly absorbed and shut off, it would be ideal to use a surge protector when plugging in an assortment of power tools. If you plan to use a power strip in your garage, be sure you are plugging in devices that don’t need protection. A long industrial power strip can be very useful to charge all the batteries needed for your tools or for a radio, vacuum or table saw. Please see our website for a copy of our catalog or visit https://primewirecable.com/collections/surge-protectors-power-centers for more information on our power strips and surge protectors.
If you didn’t know this already, surge protectors play an important role in keeping your home appliances and electronic devices from being zapped by power surges. Have you ever been at work or school and you finally come home to relax to watch some TV but you notice that when you pressed the power button nothing happened. Then you come to realize the small light on your surge protector is off and you flip the switch back, to turn on your TV. This is usually due to a power surge caused by one of your in-home appliances that can range from a refrigerator, power tool, or even a vacuum. Anything that temporarily draws a large current and then abruptly shuts off is likely to cause a surge. Every single house will experience surges. For instance running a vacuum off the same power strip, if a surge causes the circuit breaker to trip on the surge protector, there’s actually a high chance the other devices that are plugged in, will be damaged. Surges are constantly taking place in the household. Situations like flickering lights when your refrigerator’s motor kicks on, the fridge temporarily draws more power when the motor comes on. When it shuts off the power should go back to the wall panel and should dissipate without damaging anything else. However, if it’s an older surge protector it is also possible that the surge power can spread out to the connected electronics. This can possibly happen throughout the years; each surge power strip can only absorb large amounts of power and protect your connected devices for so long. Surge protectors have two main purposes, to allow you to plug in multiple components and to protect devices that are plugged by absorbing the constant inevitable surges in your home.
Many people don’t realize how much this device regulates electricity efficiently throughout a home. Think of a dam that blocks water from coming into a city. The dam allows a bit of water to flow through smoothly, in return it makes an energy source to fuel the town. Just like a surge protector allowing the correct amount of electric flow through your devices/appliances. The water flow through the dam represents the electric flow through your house into your surge protector. Then becomes the dam and regulates the correct amount of energy to enter. However, unlike a dam that can last for half a decade without maintenance, a surge protector cannot withstand the long periods of constant surges. When a surge occurs, the indicator light on your surge protector will trip and shut off to avoid any harmful electric jumps to your devices. This is the key concept to realize that surge protectors will fail someday and don’t last forever. It’s important to know the hazards and causalities that can be caused by an old surge protector.
Few Scenarios
There are few important situations that can occur to your surge protector that might influence you to want to buy a new replacement. As mentioned before the surge protector power strip absorbs continuous bombardment of surges in your home. The average surge protector will last approximately 2-3 years, depending on the number of surge events it can bare. Over a period of time, as it continues to do its job, it will lose the ability to stop incoming surges. This happens when the MOV’s in your surge protector finally give out. A metal oxide varistor are the electronic components in surge protectors that absorb the energy/electricity in a surge. They conduct large currents to eliminate the extra/harmful voltage to your plugged in devices.
When this happens the surge light on the protector won’t appear anymore and only the grounded indicator light would be visible. This would be the right time to purchase a new replacement because the surge protector will no longer be able to protect your devices. Some surge protectors even stop providing power after their MOVs are no longer working. Even if there is nothing wrong with the current surge protector, it is vital that you switch it out after a few years. For instance, the surge protector I currently have in my living room that supports my entertainment system and internet devices has been working for about 4 years now and should be replaced. Versus the surge protector I keep in my workshop shed that supports all my power tools has been working for one year but the protector indicator light is no longer visible. I typically use the shed each weekend, in doing so the power tools extract large amounts of energy versus my entertainment system. This causes the surge protector to wear out more quickly. The farther from a surge causing device, the more likely the surge protector will last a long time.
If your home is hit with lighting, more than likely your surge protector won’t be able to absorb those large amounts of electricity anymore. You would most likely need a new replacement because that surge protector won’t function properly. There are no surge protectors that can shield your devices from lighting. The best solution would be to unplug your devices during a lighting storm. This will help to eliminate any possible chances of your devices from being damaged, if your home were to be hit with a lightning bolt.
There are a few obvious things we should point out on when you should replace your surge protector. If you ever see or think that your surge protector got potentially damp or wet then it’s recommended you switch it out. Sometimes people but these in certain damp areas without even knowing or considering the environment. Or, if you ever experience a smoky or burnt smell coming from your surge protector, than more than likely it has served its purpose or malfunctioned and should definitely be removed and replaced with a new one. We also warn against daisy chaining surge protectors together – they were not designed to function this way. If you daisy chain them, this is basically connecting multiple surge protectors together. Virtually all manufacturers warn against this.
Tips and Tricks
Going to recommend a few things to help you remember how to keep track of your surge protector.
Once I gave into the hype and purchased a few indoor and outdoor Wi-Fi outlets, I realized what I was missing out on. It is difficult to know how useful a smart outlet is when you don’t actually have it installed and in use with important devices around your house. I don’t mean any regular devices but devices that you use on everyday basis. While having these new outlets in my home, I have come to realize that there are a few advantages and benefits to having Wi-Fi outlets. There were 5 particular benefits that I noticed that these outlets had on my daily life:
Time Optimization
If you aren’t a morning person this would definitely be of some interest to you. We all know how bad the morning chaos can be when you running late to work or to event gatherings. Having to struggle getting out of bed to turn off your alarm, or waiting for your coffee to heat up and start brewing can be time consuming. Instead of dealing with all this stress early in the morning, you can make it much easier on yourself by turning on these appliances with the push of a button or in this case a tap on your smartphone. Once you install Wi-Fi outlets to these appliances you can turn off your alarm and start your coffee before you get out of bed or get up and start getting ready. This helps you by saving time with automated tasks. Ideally you would set up your coffee maker the night before and then set the Wi-Fi outlet to automatically turn on at a certain time the following morning. In turn, you wake up to the nostalgic scent of coffee in the mornings in your home.
During the summertime using in-wall Wi-Fi outlets can be of some use as well, especially if you dislike the heat. I’m not too fond of the heat myself, so when I come home from work I like to walk into an already cool house. It normally takes about 20 minutes after I turn on the air conditioner for the house to reach my cool setting. Now instead of waiting until I get home, I usually turn on my air-con at home when I’m stuck sitting in traffic 20 minutes from home. This gives me the luxury of walking into a cool home without have to sit and wait in the heat.
Save Energy
With the ability to turn off and on your home appliances, a lot of cost saving energy will occur. There is a term named vampire power and this is basically devices in your home that are on standby. Surprisingly, many can be found throughout the house but generally they are appliances with external power supplies. According to the Department of energy, these vampire appliances can account for about 10% of energy used in an average home. These are typically devices in your home that have a remote control, continuous display such as a clock, or even a phone charger. Below is a list of examples:
With Wi-Fi outlets you will be able to control the amount of energy you waste and save. Use a smart plug to schedule any of the listed appliances above to your desired time. We are all aware that during the summer, our electric companies encourage us to use energy early mornings or late evenings. With smart plugs you can schedule your appliances to turn on during these hours, thus saving a few extra bucks on your electric bill.
Security
There were a few unique ways I am using my Wi-Fi outlets to help keep my home safe from intruders. If you are leaving your home for a few days or over the weekend it would be smart to leave a light on in the living room. Doing so will create the illusion of someone being at home, typically try to leave a light on that can be visibly seen from outside. Grab your lamp from the living room, connect a smart outlet and then schedule it to turn on at night when you are away from your home. Turning on certain appliances with a smart schedule will make your home look like it’s occupied. Smart plugs are essential in making your own presence simulation, even when your miles away.
During the holiday’s we don’t usually like to celebrate at home so we go to the in-laws. We stay at their house for a few days. When we are gone we leave the Christmas lights on at our house during the night and schedule the outlets to turn them off the very next morning. This gives us peace at mind when we away during holiday. Our home is less likely to be visited by any intruders with all the Christmas lights on outside.
Safety
Sometimes there are appliances in your household that will warm up or get hot when they are turned on. Devices like this can pose a serious threat when they are left unattended. For instance when my wife uses her straightening iron or flat iron in the mornings before work, she forgets to turn it off. There have been several times she leaves the house without turning it off because she is in a hurry and running late to work. She now uses smart plugs to turn off her hair appliances when she gets out the door, to avoid any hazards. This allows her to still rush through her morning hair routine without worrying about burring down the house. This can be done with any household device that tends to heat up in nature, such as a flat iron.
Monitoring Consumption
Smart plugs can help you to manage and limit your children’s screen time. When you come home tired from work the last thing you want to do is play bad cop. Avoid the disputes by setting up a designated time period on the smart outlets to turn on that will allow your kids to use their game consoles or watch TV. The device will shut down on a predetermined time according to the setting you set on the smart outlet. You can also monitor their activity late at night. When you are too lazy to get out of bed and go to their room. Simply check your phone app, depending on the model; you can see if your child is using their appliances in their room during these late hours at night.
There are several models that allow you to monitor the consumptions of the devices that are plugged into your smart outlets. The data that is collected on how much energy each electrical appliance uses during a period of time can be used in your favor. It gives you an idea of how much energy is being used in your home and allows you to manage their usage. Doing so you can pin point certain devices you don’t need on at night and in turn save energy.
]]>These are just a few of the top reasons why a mechanical timer may be right for you. When you want to set it and forget it, consider a Prime mechanical timer, easy to use, super reliable. https://primewirecable.com/collections/timers-remote-controls/category_timer
]]>Distance from the Outlet
After you determined what you want to plug into your surge protector the next thing you need to think about is how far those electronics and devices are from an electrical outlet? For a surge protector to work properly it MUST be plugged directly into a wall outlet. So, then you must determine if your devices will reach the outlets or if you will need a corded surge unit to protect your equipment. If the devices that you want to plug into a surge can reach the wall outlet with a little slack I would opt for a Surge Tap so long as it has all the connectivity you need. A surge wall “tap” is a device that plugs directly into a wall receptacle with three prongs built into the device and supplies extra outlets that are surge protected and may have USB outlets as well. A wall “tap” does not have a cord. Wall taps are ideal for tight spaces because they fit snug against a wall and work well for kitchen appliances like a fridge. If your devices do not come close to a wall outlet measure the difference from the wall outlet to the plugs of the devices furthest away from the outlet. For example, if the difference is 4ft from the furthest appliance plug to the outlet I would suggest you get a 6ft-8ft corded surge protector. I would suggest having a little slack in the cord lines so nothing gets tugged out of the surge protector. All surge protectors with cords are mountable so you can mount them to a wall or furniture if you desire so it stays put. If you do not desire to mount your surge protector make sure it will lay on the ground flat while being used.
Know What Joule Rating You Need
The main thing to consider when purchasing a new surge protector is the joule rating. In simple terms joule ratings are what save your appliances from one large surge of electrical power or an occurrence of small surges throughout your electrical lines. Small appliances like lamps, radios, digital clocks would need less than 1000 joule rated surge protector. This is because they are relatively inexpensive and do not draw as much power even when they are turned off. To guard medium appliances or mid-range priced electronics like power tools, home printers, and mini fridges you would need a surge protector between 1000-2000 joules. For all major electronics and high cost appliances I recommend a Joule rating higher than 2000. As a rule of thumb the higher the joule rating the better the protection so think of the cost of your appliance and determine what joule rating you would consider buying to protect it.
Definition: For more on Joules, power in general is defined as energy over time. Watts are defined as 1 Watt = 1 Joule per second (1W = 1 J/s) which means that 1 kW = 1000 J/s. A Watt is the amount of energy (in Joules) that an electrical device is burning per second that it's running. One joule equals the work done (or energy expended) by a force of one newton (N) acting over a distance of one meter (m). One newton equals a force that produces an acceleration of one meter per second (s) per second on a one kilogram (kg) mass.
]]>Most people don’t know anything about the difference between a power strip and a surge protector, all they see is that they get more outlets to plug their appliances into. I am here to tell you there is a HUGE difference. Power strips are great for uses like a line of crockpots in your kitchen for a family gathering or a metal power strip in your garage for your shop vacuum, radio and the pressure washer you will be using all at the same time. I know what you’re thinking, well both the power strip and the surge protector have a circuit breaker in them so that will protect my equipment. Think again! A circuit breaker is a small line of defense but are you going to plug your 55-inch smart TV into a power strip by the off chance the on-off circuit breaker will save it? No. You need a surge protector with a good amount a joules to protect that high end appliance.
Myth #2 - Any Surge Protector Will Do.
There are a lot of factors to think of when you are purchasing a surge protector. What appliance or appliances are you going to be plugging into the surge protector? The type of appliances can determine the joule rating you will need for your devices. Small appliances like lamps, radios, digital clocks would need less than 1000 joule rated surge protector. To protect medium appliances and electronics like power tools, home printers, and mini fridges you would need a surge projector between 1000-2000 joules. For all major electronics and appliances I recommend a Joule rating higher than 2000, the higher the joule rating the better the protection. What is the cost of your appliance (TV, computer, game system, etc.). Does the surge you’re considering offer a product warranty or replacement as well? How far is the appliance from the wall outlet? Keep in mind the length of the cord on the surge protector because they need to be directly plugged into a wall outlet not daisy chained with an extension cord to work properly. Do I need one with USB connectivity to charge my phone, tablet or Bluetooth device? Do I need to plug in my Coax for cable connectivity or RJ45 for Ethernet cable connectivity? When you are choosing the right surge protector you need to think of all the other things you would like to plug into it. For example, if you are plugging in your TV, DVD player, sound bar, cable connection and your gaming console you would opt for a high end home entertainment surge protector that could accommodate all of that and maybe even have a USB for your headphones.
Myth #3 - Lighting Strikes Are the Only Thing That Cause Surges in Power.
You may not know this but there is power surges everyday throughout your electricity lines. If you have ever been in a building and had all the lights flicker that is a power surge. A power surge can originate from the power plant switching grids or grid failure or it can come from your large appliances turning on like your microwave or your air conditioner or even circuit overloads and faulty wiring. There are a variety of reasons why you should have a surge protection regardless of the weather.
Myth #4 - A Surge Protector Will Protect My Equipment From a Lightning Strike.
Having a surge “protector” sometimes creates that sense of false security since it has protector in the name. Don’t get me wrong a surge protector is a great security measure against the everyday electrical surges and remnants of a lightning strike in neighboring cities to your electronics. However, it will not stop a lightning strike in or around your neighborhood from damaging you’re plugged in appliances and electronics. A lightning strike generates billions of joules of power. When lightning strikes there are usually fires, power outages, and extreme home damage, meaning there is nothing on earth that can withstand that kind of energy especially a small surge protector.
Myth #5 - Turning Off My Appliance Protects Them From Power Surges.
Because we associate power with surges it is natural to think that if I turn off my power strip or surge protector that my appliances are now safe from the big bad surges of power. WRONG! So long as the plug is connected to the wall where the power is constantly flowing your devices are at risk. The power from the wall is constantly flowing and if a surge of power flows it will push into the surge protector or power strip via the conducting wires and into the appliances connected to them thus damaging them. If you are concerned about a particular device, you should be using a surge protector that is 1200 joules or higher (Prime sells up to 4200 joules), or for the truly worried, the best way to truly protect against a power surge is to unplug everything from the wall outlet.]]>Branding
All brands are not created equal, some brands try to get away with using the minimum materials inside their cords. As a brand, Prime is seen as a “contractors” cord, Prime prides themselves on durability and building their cords to high quality standards. All extension cords are built, tested and certified at the same UL standards. Please make sure the cord you pick to purchase has an ETL or UL logo on the front of the package or stamped on the product, this is the seal of approval from the testing agencies that test to the UL standards. If you are in Canada you would look for the cETLus or cULus.
Length
To determine the best size extension cord for outdoor use I always think of Goldie Locks and the three bears. This is because a 25ft extension cord is typically too short for applications at my house by the time I plug it in at the back of my garage and pull in thru to the front. A 100ft extension cord is typically too long and I end up tripping over the excess cord. However, a 50ft extension cord is just right giving me plenty of room to work outside without tripping or pulling the cord out of the wall.
Indoor use extension cords are generally smaller in length because they are usually used in the same room the device is in and there are plugs on almost every wall in the room. Also most at home appliances come equipped with a 6ft cord. At this time the only thing I have an indoor extension cord for is my laptop. This is because I usually like to have space to move from the couch to a chair if I am working and my battery is low. The cord I use is a 9ft extension cord so that gives me a total 15ft to move around which is plenty. For general indoor use a 6ft-9ft extension cord is perfect.
Jacket Type
The “jacket” of the cord refers to the outer sleeve that protects the wires inside. What is the outer jacket made of? There are several different jacket types for outdoor and indoor use SJT, SJTW, SPT, STW, SJEOW, HPN, etc. Each of these jacket types are used for specific conditions and are part of what makes a cord good, better and best. For example, a rubber jacketed (SJOOW, SJEOW, etc.) extension cord is more flexible in higher and lower temperatures making the jacket material the best for extreme temperatures and would typically cost more. However, since we are speaking general application not specific conditions or specific applications I would chose SJTW for outdoor and SPT for indoor. I would choose an SJTW jacket material for the outdoor cord because it is the most generally used outdoor jacket. SJTW jacket material is weatherproof, rated for outdoor use, 300V insulation type, made of PVC (vinyl) thermoplastic and it is abrasion resistant so it won’t break through the jacket when dragging it across the floor. No fuss, no muss, just good all-around jacket. For your information if you don’t see a W in a jacket type then that means it is not for outdoor use. As for indoor use jacket material I would go with the good old SPT jacket. The SPT jacket is a parallel construction, usually insulated and used in products such as household extension cords, air conditioner cords and low voltage landscape cable, made of PVC (vinyl) thermoplastic and is a flat wire so it tends to lay nicely behind tables, chairs, couches, etc.
Gauge
The gauge of a cord represents the cord thickness and how much copper is used as a conductor. The higher the number (16) the thinner the wire or cord will be. So a 10 gauge cord is much thicker than a 16 gauge cord. This is where things get tricky because wire gauge determines the amount of power delivery a device will get. This is another area that defines a good, better and best extension cord. A 16 AWG extension cord will drop from 13 amps to 10 amps after 50ft., a 14 AWG extension cord will drop from 15 amps to 13 amps after 50ft, a 12 AWG extension cord does not drop in amperage from 50ft. to 100ft. Do as you can see a 12 AWG cord would be the best in this category. However since we are speaking in general use terms I would recommend getting a 14/3 cord since my recommended length is 50ft this will still pull 15amps of power. Most indoor cords are 16AWG so any 16/3 AWG indoor cord will be fine to power the majority of indoor items. The 3 in the 14/3 is the number of conducting wires or as I think of the as the prong denotation of the cord ends. Some devices have two prongs and some have three prongs. It is better to have a cord that can receive three prong items because a two prong can still be received in the end. This is another reason I chose 14/3 for outdoor & 16/3 for indoor for my recommended gauges.
Outlets
This should be a no brainer and go without saying but I am going to say it anyway buy an extension cord that has a three prong receptacle. Buying an extension cord that has three receiving outlets turns the wall outlet you plugged the cord into to a three outlet, allowing you to hook more devices up where you are working. Having the three outlets will save you the time of finding another cord and money of buying more cords.
Summary
There are a variety of excellent “general” purpose outdoor cords, but if in doubt we’d recommend buying a Prime branded 14/3 or 12/3 50ft. SJTW three prong extension cord. The best general indoor extension cord to buy is a Prime branded 6ft or 9ft 16/3 SPT-3 three outlet. Colors and prices are up to your budgets and preference. As a reminder my recommendations here are for general use extension cords. Sometimes you may need bigger or shorter cords, some with more or less power and some where you just want it to blend into the environment, the choice is always yours. You do you! Just make sure it will power what you need it to.
]]>Purpose and Location (where, what, when)
What is the light or bulb needed for the task at hand? Is it for something around the office space, work shop or house? When you have to take out the trash at night do you want something strong? Would a simple off the shelf low lumen flashlight work for checking dark areas in your attic, garage, or when checking the circuit boxes during a power outage. Or how about when you go on a camping trip with the family or friends, you may need a flashlight with a long narrow beam lumen or a lamp with low watts that can last all night and light up the campsite area.
On the other hand, if you need a desk lamp for your office and have bad eyesight like myself you may need something more bright with high lumen. If that same desk is being used by kids’ reading, then you might want a gentler light to reduce eye fatigue. Dimmer lights can be used in the bedroom to create a more soothing atmosphere while kitchen lights you want them to be brighter so you don’t spill anything, burn something, or mix up ingredients. Context and the brightness of you fixtures matter too. I know when I finally build my man cave or playroom I’m going to have multicolored LEDs in them.
The function and use of the lights you are searching for can influence how bulbs are spaced out. If there are multiple sockets then you can get few dimmer bulbs and spread them apart or you can just simply purchase a single high lumen bulb that will serve the whole space. Ideally, you would like higher lumen and lower watts.
So what’s the difference?
You may now be asking yourself, do watts really matter? Well it turned out that wattage was never the most accurate way to determine brightness of a light bulb. For years we have associated brightness to wattage and were taught to buy lights or bulbs with high watts. This was a misconception for a long time up until the idea of energy-saving lighting, specifically LEDs, were introduced into the industry. Both watts and lumens are units of a light bulb space but they also have differences. While lumens demonstrates to you how bright your bulb is, watts tell you how high your bill will be.
Lumens can be described as the amount of light you can see, or a measure of the total 'amount' of visible light emitted by a source, while watts calculate the amount of power that will be used up. The energy efficiency of these LEDs meant that a higher wattage no longer meant a brighter light. While LEDs are becoming the norm in lighting, it’s important to understand the difference between lumens and watts and how to determine what is a suitable amount of lumens for creating your ideal atmosphere.
Now that you know what the differences are let’s talk about the different technologies in lighting. There are several bulb types from incandescent, halogen, CFL, and LEDs. On average the main bulbs that majority of people use in households is halogens and LEDs. Depending on the amount of power you want to save you should choose a light bulb that has low watts for a high output of lumens; ideally a LED would be the best bet. We know now that higher lumens correlates to brighter light, and lower watts is less power, so it makes sense that a light with high lumens and low watt will be more energy efficient than another light with low lumens and higher wattage.
Choosing the Right Product
When you are shopping for a light for your next home project it’s important to make sure to look for the advertised lumen count in the specification. You will need to take into consideration weather you want to focus on the source of lumens or the lumens to be delivered by the fixtures. It will start helping you if you begin by thinking in lumens instead of watts. It has been an adjustment for me but it is an essential part of understanding how to build a preferred atmosphere to the project at hand. You will need to realize that LEDs, fluorescents, and more efficient incandescent all have different levels of wattage, but that no longer is tied to brightness. Try avoiding figuring out what a good lumens per watt number will be, because the development of lighting tech is increasing rapidly. What seems to be energy efficient right now may not be the case a few months down the line. Ultimately, take into consideration the lighting levels and lumens over the wattage of the lamp/flashlight/bulbs/fixtures, and if it will provide a more energy efficient light system. High lumen and low wattage, specifically LEDs, will provide the best lighting with the lowest energy cost.
Tips
The points I’ve recently explained are how I go about buying a light, by mainly focusing on lumens.
Whether you are a DIY’er or a Pro it is important to know how the length, gauge and amperage of an extension cord work together to complete any project. The thickness and length of a cord do mean something when it comes to power.
The length of an extension cord is determined by the difference between the inside or the outside outlet, depending on your application use, to where your tool, appliance, or decoration is located. Make sure to always get a longer extension cord than what the measurement to the device is just in case you have to move the device. This little tip will limit accidental extension cord pull outs, tripping, and all around yanking of the cord. The best rule of thumb is if you need an eight-foot outdoor extension cord to power up your drill on your workbench, typically extension cords vary by 3ft in size, so use a 12ft or 15ft indoor extension cord for that drill. If you are using an extension cord for outdoor use and the distance is 23ft I would opt for a 35ft or 50ft extension cord vs. a 25ft extension cord so you have more freedom to move around while you are working outside. Outdoor cords also work indoors so don’t think you have to use an indoor cord, although indoor cords are typically are smaller and blend in with an indoor environment.
All extension cords have an amperage rating or AWG (American wire gauge). This rating is a standardized wire gauge classification for measuring electrical wire. A lower AWG number designates a thicker wire and a higher power capacity. The AWG rating would look like 14/3 AWG on an extension cord package. The 14 stands for the gauge of wire and the 3 represent the number of conducting wires, or as I like to think of them as the prongs on the plug ends. So make sure to look at your device plug end before you pick up your extension cord because you don’t want to buy a 2 prong extension cord for your 3 prong device ending up with another trip to the store. When it comes to wire gauge the lower the number the higher the power delivery. For example a 16 AWG extension cord will deliver less power than a 12 AWG extension cord.
Download our Amp vs Gauge chart here
Now that you know about choosing the right extension cord length and the gauge of the wire, we can tell you about amperage or amps for short. Like anything the amperage of an extension cord is a give and take relationship. Amperage is the power a device will pull or take and what an extension cord will carry or give to the device. To make sure this relationship works, the amperage draw of the device cannot exceed the amperage the extension cord will carry. For example, if you have a grinder it pulls 15 amps if you use a 10 amp 16/3 100ft extension cord the grinder will not work properly because it is starved for power. However, if you have a hand drill or small device that draws only 10 amps then you could use any outdoor extension cord and any gauge. This is because the smallest gauge outdoor extension cord is the 16 AWG Medium Duty and a 16 AWG cord carries a minimum of 10 amps. If you have a large power tool or device like a circular saw drawing 15 amps of power you would need a larger AWG extension cord like a 50ft 14 AWG Heavy Duty or any 12 AWG Extra Heavy Duty extension cord because these carry 15 amps to your device. Both 16 AWG and 14 AWG extension cords drop in amperage once the total extension cord length exceeds 50ft. This does not matter if you are using one 100ft cord or two 50ft cords plugged in together the amperage will drop. A 16 AWG extension cord will drop from 13 amps to 10 amps after 50ft., a 14 AWG extension cord will drop from 15 amps to 13 amps after 50ft, a 12 AWG extension cord does not drop in amperage from 50ft. to 100ft. So generally it is better to buy a 12 AWG extension cord if you don’t want to worry about having enough power.
]]>Coming Up Short
If you have ever decorated your house for Halloween, Christmas, Hanukah or any other holiday then you know it can be like playing Tetris on your lawn. Not only do you have to think of where you want to place every light, inflatable decoration, bow or sign, but then you have to make sure you have power to all the things that need it. The most frustrating thing that can happen is setting your decorations perfectly in place and at the very last moment realizing your extension cord is too short to bring the power where you need it. BLAH!!!
More is Not Always Better
For most objects and things more is better, Right? More money, more donuts, more vacations of course, but for extension cords there can become a point where it can be too much. If you have ever worked with an extension cord that is thirty feet too long, you would realize these things are heavy and can become tangled easily. We recommend the three bears approach, not to long, not to short but just right. It’s probably better to have a little more than not enough.
Another common problem with using a longer cord is the fact that depending on the gauge of the cord it may drop in amperage. Some people want to string different extension cords together, even using an indoor rated cord with an outdoor cord, this is not recommended and can cause issues for the user. If indoor cords are used outside for decorations, it can spell electrical trouble. Indoor cords do not have the same rugged outer jacket as an outdoor rated cord and have only two prongs where most outdoor cords have a thicker plastic jacket, heavier copper wiring and three prongs, all to protect your devices and the user from electrical shock. Different gauge cords carry different amounts of electricity to the end product. For example, a 50ft, 16-gauge extension cord carries 13 Amps of power to any device. A 100ft, 16-gauge extension cord carries only 10 Amps of power. If you have a 13 Amp drill and use a 100ft 16-gauge extension cord that drill is starving for power and may not function properly.
Some people want to keep that extra length of cord in a coil or a cord winder to lessen the cord size or ugliness of it when it is out in the open, this is a big NO NO. If you read the warning on any extension cord label it specifically says that the cord needs to be fully extended. There is a reason for this warning. An extension cord carries electrical current and where there is current there is heat. The heat from a coiled cord stacked on top of each other could cause the jacket material to become soft and actually fuse the jacket layers together rendering the cord useless after its first use.
Just Right
I know what you are thinking, just right should be JUST RIGHT. However, that is not the case when it comes to extension cords. You should always have a bit of extra cord traveling from the wall where the plug of the cord is inserted to and the device the cord is connected to. The extra slack of extension cord allows you wiggle room in case you need to move your tool on a jobsite, appliance, or yard decoration without pulling it away from the wall or device. It also allows you to work freely without tugging because let’s face it, cords have zero give. If the cord were to pull away from the wall even the tiniest bit it opens you up to disaster. When a cord pulls away from an outlet and isn’t completely pulled out there is still electricity flowing from the wall to the plug. If the connection is not a sealed connection, it will cause the electricity to arch and try to find that complete connection. Kind of like after a good windstorm everything in your home is full of static and once in a while when you go to push on a light or touch someone or something it snaps and sparks when you get close that is an arch on a small scale. The cord arching can and will causing a hefty dangerous spark.
If the cord is not just right it could also come up off the ground causing a tripping hazard for someone walking by where you are working. Nobody wants to play limbo or jump rope in a shop or working on a project. The cord should always stay on the ground not above ground where it could knock things over or someone could run into it.
Summary
Now that you know three reasons why you need to buy the right extension cord here are some helpful tips before you buy your next cord:
What Do PRIME® Extension Cord Rating Designations Mean?
Embossed on each PRIME® cord is a letter designation that defines the type and approved use of the cord.
You will see that each PRIME® extension cord carries one of the following designations:
Prime Outdoor Vinyl Extension Cords
PRIME All-Weather TPE-Rubber Extension Cords
PRIME Rubber Extension Cords
S – The “S” at the beginning of all designations state that the cord is Hard Service flexible cord for general use.
P – Parallel construction, usually insulated and used in products such as household extension cords, air conditioner cords and low voltage landscape cable.
J – The “J” after the “S” defines the jacket of the cord as being the standard 300 volt insulation type currently used on most extension cords. The absence of the “J” defines the cord jacket as an extra hard service 600 volt insulation type defined by PRIME® as our “Double Jacket” cord because the outer cord jacket is roughly twice the thickness of the “J” jacket that is normally used in outdoor extension cords.
V – Vacuum wire, softer and more flexible than standard SJT, usually found on retractable cord reels and vacuum cleaner power supply and extension cords because it holds up to constant winding and unwinding but still maintains its shape.
T or E – This letter defines the material the insulation and jacket are made from. “T” defines the insulating material as PVC (vinyl) thermoplastic. The letter “E” defines the insulation and jacket material as TPE–thermoplastic elastomer rubber.
O – The letter “O” defines the cord as being Oil Resistant. This was especially designed because most rubber type cords would break down and lose insulating performance when exposed to oil or grease.
W – This letter designates that the cord has been rated for outdoor use. As part of this rating, the different insulation and jacket compounds must meet the following use temperature ranges. UL sets a use temperature range of the
“T” PVC vinyl material at -31°F to +140°F (-35°C to +60°C). PRIME® has formulated the PVC vinyl compound in our products to exceed this nominal range by approximately 5°F. UL sets a use temperature range of the “E”
TPE-rubber material at -58°F to +221°F (-50°C to +105°C). PRIME® has also exceeded this range by approximately 12°F.
(UL) – This defines the cord as being Underwriters Laboratories listed. UL allows the use of the logo in parenthesis rather than a complete circle on round product, like a cord.
Water Resistant – Most of Prime’s outdoor cords are now made with water resistant material. Standard vinyl and TPE-rubber cords have a tendency to absorb water if left lying in a puddle on the job site. When water comes in contact with the copper wire it starts to corrode. If the water remains in the cord it could build up until a shock path is created. When water gets in a cord its life is shortened.
CSA – Defines the product as meeting Canadian Standards Association requirements. The CSA logo is usually not abbreviated.
C(UL) & C CSA US – Since the NAFTA agreement with Canada, UL and the Canadian Standards Association, CSA, have worked together to allow CSA to list products for the USA and for UL to list products for use in Canada. The
C(UL) designation says the product was tested and certified by UL to Canadian Standards and the C CSA US mark signifies that CSA tested the product and certifies it to the UL Standards.
FT2 – This letter group defines the product as being flame retardant. If a standard vinyl or TPE-rubber cord catches on fire, the flame can quickly burn the entire length of the cord. The PRIME® jacket insulation material will prevent the spread of combustion along the cord. The cord will extinguish the flame within 30 seconds of the heat source being removed.
CL2 – Or “class 2” is a UL rating for wire that can be used for in-wall construction. Usually applies to communication cable or speaker wire.
SRDT – Is heavy duty wire made specifically for use with higher amperage equipment such as ranges, dryers and mobile home power hook-up cords. Not very flexible.
HPN – Is high-heat parallel neoprene wire made specifically for use with clothes irons, portable heaters and other such applications where high temperatures of the appliance could affect the power cord’s performance.
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